Making data on fashion industry chemicals more accessible
Evaluation of the pilot initiative - MaterialWise - Enabling access to assessed chemicals for greener, safer chemistry
8 January 2021 C&A Foundation
The goal of the initiative was to increase accessibility to high-quality, actionable data on chemicals, to enable positive decision-making early in product design processes in a wider effort to shift the fashion industry towards using and reusing safe materials and a circular economy.
Objectives:
The key objective was to launch three pilot programmes laying the foundation for a globally harmonised database of chemical hazard assessments (CHAs) to enable brands and manufacturers to make informed, data-driven decisions about chemicals at the start of the design process, leading to safer end products.
Facts:
Partner: MaterialWise (now ChemForward)
Investment: EUR 400,000
Duration: December 2017 - August 2019
Geographic region: USA
Results
Although MaterialWise performed efficiently, some outcomes were not achieved due to several challenges
- The initiative delivered the underpinning elements of its new model for a harmonised input approach for generating CHA profiles. It also developed the cloud-based platform, creation of a harmonised input methodology with multiple outputs (for roll-up scores for chemical formulation), development and testing of an external verification and peer review process, engagement of data suppliers and a pricing arrangement for users and assessors
- However, the pilots didn’t achieve their intended results. The first pilot (Alternatives to Ortho-Phthalates Plasticisers) ran smoothly but alternative assessments generated were unpublished. The second pilot initiative (PFAS-free and Zero Discharge of Hazard Chemicals (ZDHC) Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) compliant Durable Water Repellents) brought in a lower portfolio volume than planned due to chemical suppliers dropping out from participation. The third pilot (Alternatives to the use of Dimethyl Formamide in the manufacture of synthetic leather) is ongoing and findings were unavailable. The intended result of enabling harmonisation of different assessment tools in use was reported as a significant achievement
- There were several challenges in the latter two successful pilot initiatives. These projects took longer and required more effort than envisioned to bring suppliers on board; it also was difficult to engage suppliers and the number of alternative assessments generated for portfolios was less than anticipated and resulted in a lack of support to the value proposition in terms of affordability
The initiative missed the mark due to, recent work on brand-led scored chemistry but helped in sharing knowledge and systems thinking as well as promoting the use of alternative assessments
- MaterialWise was born as a tool to support scalability of the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) certification and evolved to potentially respond to a gap in developing assessments of chemicals, particularly their management and optimisation and the link to sustainable development
- However, apparel brands were less interested as a result of recent work on brand-led scored chemistry. The relevance of MaterialWise’s value proposition to some sectors has the potential to promote the use of alternative assessments for chemicals of concern. Co-design partners in other sectors such as electronics, retail and personal care appear keen to move beyond Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs) and toward safer chemistry
- Adoption of a user-centred design that was co-created by users led to positive results providing MaterialWise with insider info that helped orient the work towards actual market needs (e.g. alternative chemicals). Because co-design partners saw representation from different sectors that informed the process, the initiative was conducive to both sharing knowledge and systems thinking
What did we learn?
C&A Foundation
- It is important to design grant-making within portfolios to achieve shared goals either through complementary or divergent initiatives that disallow competitive approaches
- Recruitment and bringing brands and suppliers on board takes time that requires longer-term initiatives
For Partners & Others
- Developing an alternative portfolio for a product (versus a single chemical) is time intensive due to the recruitment and disclosure processes
- Ensuring clarity of expectations for participating co-design partners to increase the efficiency and effectiveness of the process
- It is vital to include the green chemistry community in other regions such as Europe and Asia where the potential to scale is high